Several decades ago Fakarava was the cultural, social and political center of the Tuamotus, but all that remains today are ruins of the administration buildings, a prison, and a small church built from coral in 1862.
The biggest surprise was the profusion of small sharks that clustered around us, just like reef fish, swarming near when food crumbs were thrown into the water, 4 or 5 foot black tipped sharks, with lovely tan bodies. The pass diving is fantastic: with lovely coral, dozens of big sharks, and millions of fish.
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